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Museo del Perfume


"El perfume es la forma más intensa del recuerdo. Debe ser como el tema central del Bolero de Ravel. Una especie de lenta obsesión."

Me encanta esta frase de Jean Paul Guerlain. La fragancia a fresias, por ejemplo, puede hacernos recordar a la persona amada; la de lavanda a dulces momentos de nuestra infancia, y la de rosas a lugares entrañables…el perfume es una presencia que no está, o una ausencia que se hace presente…es un viaje a través del tiempo (en esta época del año, me encanta caminar por Adrogué. El aroma de los pinos y los jazmines han inundado por completo las calles, las plazas y los jardines. Adrogué huele a tilos, a eucaliptos y a mi madre...).


La historia de la perfumería es tan antigua como la historia de la humanidad.
Desde siempre, los hombres y particularmente las mujeres han tenido una profunda necesidad, y debilidad, por perfumarse.
Las primeras noticias escritas que nos han llegado sobre el uso de los perfumes las encontramos en las civilizaciones occidentales de la Mesopotamia. Entre las tablillas de arcilla que los sumerios utilizaban para escribir y gracias a las cuales conocemos hoy su cultura y su costumbres, se han encontrado muchas recetas para la elaboración de ungüentos y perfumes y otras que hacen referencia a productos utilizados en sus composiciones.
Egipto, influenciado por esta cultura, fue quién fomentó una de las industrias cosméticas y perfumistas más importantes de la antigüedad.


Los encargados de su elaboración eran los sacerdotes que, viviendo cerca de los templos, elaboraban los aromas que utilizaban con profusión en las ceremonias religiosas (por la mañana un sacerdote entraba al templo y después de postrarse delante de la estatuilla del dios que allí se veneraba, le ungía con ungüento y lo perfumaba con incienso. La misma ceremonia se realizaba cuando el Faraón, acompañado de toda la corte y de más de 200 doncellas que con humeantes inciensos perfumaban todo el recorrido, participaba en las solemnes procesiones que se celebraban periódicamente desde Karnac a Luxor. En tiempos del rey Salomón, la perfumería alcanzó su mayor apogeo. Cuando la reina de Saba, que procedía del "país de los perfumes" ,fue a visitar a Salomón llegó con un gran numero de camellos cargados de perfumes, oro y piedras preciosas ("Nunca llegaron a Jerusalén perfumes con tanta abundancia como cuando la reina de Saba los trajo para Salomón", pasaje de la biblia).
Ahora llegamos a uno de los hitos más importantes de la perfumería, Grecia.



El origen y desarrollo de la perfumería en Grecia lo encontramos en sus vecinos de Creta y en sus colonias, así como en Siria y otros pueblos mediterráneos.
Los griegos no tardaron en aprender estas prácticas y muy pronto comenzaron a importar esencias orientales convirtiéndose en los grandes maestros de la elaboración de ungüentos y perfumes. Hombres y mujeres los usaban en tanta abundancia que Solón prohibió por ley el uso de esencias para limitar los gastos que ocasionaban sus importaciones. Estas leyes restrictivas duraron poco tiempo. No se podía ir en contra de la voluntad de la mayoría y muy pronto volvió la costumbre de perfumarse y ofrecer a los dioses, después de los sacrificios habituales de animales, los aromas del incienso y de la mirra en los actos litúrgicos.
Pero no todo el mundo en Grecia sentía tanta adoración por los olores. Por ejemplo a Sócrates no le gustaban y afirmaba que los hombres no debían usar perfumes, puesto que una vez perfumados “tenía el mismo olor un hombre libre que un esclavo”. En cambio Diógenes que era hombre bastante descuidado, desaliñado y sucio, se perfumaba los pies y lo justificaba diciendo: "si me perfumo mis pies, el olor llega a mi nariz, si me lo pongo en la cabeza solo los pájaros pueden olerlo".
Para terminar con Grecia, cierro el tema con la tradición homérica, ya que según esta, fueron los dioses del Olimpo quienes enseñaron a los hombres y a las mujeres el uso de los perfumes (se ha encontrado muchos relatos en los que a dioses, ninfas y otros personajes mitológicos se les atribuía la creación de los aromas). Y así vemos que la rosa, que antes era blanca y sin perfume, tiene su color rojo y su aroma penetrante, desde el día en que Venus se clavó una espina de un rosal y con su sangre la tiñó de rojo. La rosa se volvió tan bella que Cupido, al verla, la besó y desde aquel momento tomó el aroma que tiene ahora.

En Roma, además de las personas, se perfumaban todas las salas de los grandes palacios, los teatros, los vestidos, y hasta algún emperador llegó a perfumar su caballo preferido.
Del emperador Nerón se cuenta que en algunos de sus banquetes hacía caer, desde el techo, pétalos de flores sobre sus comensales y soltaba palomas con las alas perfumadas, para que esparcieran por la sala sus aromas.
Los perfumistas de Roma tenían instaladas sus tiendas en un barrio llamado "Vicus unguentarium" y allí preparaban los perfumes y los ungüentos.
Con la desaparición del Imperio romano y la expansión del cristianismo que predicaba la austeridad y la moderación en las costumbres, se produjo una gran disminución en el uso de los perfumes, cuyo uso quedó reducido a las cortes de algunos reyes o a los palacios y castillos de algunos nobles.
El imperio Bizantino tomó el relevo en el arte de la perfumería y desarrolló una industria muy importante, quizás más que la de la propia Roma, por el hecho de tener más cerca las materias primas y contar con la mano de obra de sus vecinos orientales de tradición perfumista. Pero no tardaría demasiado en surgir una nueva potencia perfumera, la de los árabes.

Arabia fue conocida por los clásicos como "la tierra de los perfumes”. A principios del sigloVII Mahoma predica su doctrina y funda el Islam que en poco tiempo se extendería desde el Oriente Medio hasta España. Mahoma, como buen árabe, fue un enamorado del perfume y en el Corán se promete a los creyentes un paraíso perfumado, con grandes ríos, árboles y jardines y bellas mujeres de ojos negros, hechas del almizcle más puro.


En el Renaciemiento, Venecia y Florencia fueron las capitales de los perfumes. Las cortes de los Médicis y de los Duxs de Venecia eran cortes perfumadas. Cuando Catalina de Médicis, la gran embajadora del perfume, salió hacia Francia para casarse con el rey Enrique II, se llevó, entre su séquito, a su perfumista privado Renato de Florencia, que al llegar a Paris abrió con gran éxito una tienda de perfumes (las malas lenguas decían que sabía componer igual de bien los perfumes que los venenos).


La aparición de lo que hoy se conoce como perfumería comercial se produce en Francia, siendo los guanteros los encargados de venderlos junto a los guantes perfumados que les llegaban del sur de España donde los moros habían introducido la industria de la piel de cabritilla perfumada.

Las cortes de los reyes de Francia, en particular las de Luis XIV y Luis XV se convirtieron en grandes consumidores de esencias, un poco obligados porqué, a pesar de la elegancia de sus vestidos y la fastuosidad de sus fiestas versallescas, la fragancia de los perfumes era necesaria para disimular los malos olores característicos del cuerpo.
Durante la revolución francesa se paralizó el mercado de la perfumería, pero la guillotina, que hizo rodar las cabezas perfumadas de la nobleza, dio nombre a un nuevo aroma que se puso de moda denominado "Guillotine".
Con la subida al trono de Napoleón, gran aficionado a los buenos aromas, comenzó una nueva era. A partir de entonces los perfumistas dieron un gran impulso que, con el tiempo, convertiría a la perfumería en una potente industria, la cual, hoy por hoy, mantiene una dinámica extraordinaria y mueve cantidades astronómicas de dinero.


Antes de despedirme, quiero comentarles una curiosidad.
El perfume más caro del mundo es el “No.1 Imperial Majesty” de Clive Christian con un precio de 195.000 €(euros).



El No.1 Imperial Majesty fue creado en 1872 a petición de la reina Victoria de Inglaterra y elegido para los pasajeros de primera clase del “Titanic”.
Según Victoria Christian, representante de Clive Christian, cada gota de “Nº1” concentra la esencia de 170 rosas. Su proceso de fabricación se prolonga durante un año y se necesitan “unos 200 ingredientes” como sándalo indio, jazmín árabe, vainilla de Tahití y alguna de las variedades de rosas con las que trabajan y que cultivan en países como Francia, Bulgaria o Egipto. Una fragancia tan exclusiva no podría guardarse en otro frasco que no fuera de cristal de bacarat (también el más caro del mundo). Se fabrica de forma limitada y exclusiva, ya que incluye un diamante blanco en su cuello y su tapón reproduce la corona de la reina Victoria. La elaboración de cada uno de estos envases, de cinco kilos de peso, “persigue la perfección”, según cuenta Victoria Christian, quien ha explicado que de cada 13 frascos que se fabrican “sólo 1 suele salir perfecto”. ¿Qué pasa los con los 12 restantes?, se tiran al tacho de la basura .

Si quieren conocer más sobre la historia de los perfumes, les cuento que pueden visitar los siguientes museos y fundaciones:

* Museo del Perfume de Fragonard, París.
Creado en 1983, fue creado en un casa señorial de estilo Napoleón III construida en 1860 por Lesoufaché, un discípulo de Garnier. En el se puede descubrir una maravillosa colección de objetos de perfumería, que le hará viajar a través de los tiempos.
Un dato más que interesante, este museo vende perfumes a precio de fabrica.
* Museo del Perfume de Hochfeldenna.
Este museo esta situado en un edifico histórico construido en 1599 en el centro de la ciudad de Winkel. Guarda una colección de cerca de 7.000 botellas de Perfume y una multitud de miniaturas.
* The Fragrance Foundation.
La Fundación de la Fragancia se estableció en 1949 por 6 lideres industriales unidos con Elizabeth Arden, Coty, Guerlain, Helena Rubenstein, Chanel y Parfums Weil, para desarrollar programas de educación sobre la importancia y los placeres de las fragancias para el público americano. Cada año organizan y patrocinan los "FIFI Awards" (premios internacionales de la Perfumería Comercial). Tiene su sede en Nueva York.
* International Perfume Botlle Association (IPBA) .
Esta organización de coleccionistas del perfume se fundó en 1997, cuenta con más de 2000 socios en todo el mundo. Anualmente celebra una convención, donde además de conferencias y debates se puede asistir a un mercado de compra y venta de botellas de perfume.

Museos que, Dios y billete de por medio, me encantaria visitar!

Adieu!!!.

El Conventillo "Anexos":
1) Tipos de fragancias.
2) Noticias: Culminó el Festival Internacional de Fragancias (México).



120 comentarios:

trenazul dijo...

Yo responsabilizo a los perfumes de incentivar algunos de los mejores momentos...

Por otro lado, ¡qué cacho de blog,, un paraíso para el curioso! Estuve leyendo algunos artículos y me enteré de muchas cosas que todavía no había alcanzado a preguntarme nunca...

Te agradezco por haberte sumado a mi lista de seguidores, yo hice lo mismo y voy a volver para enterarme de más museístiqueses!

Saludosss

Agustina Tula Saborido dijo...

Trenazul:

Que Cacho de comentario, toda una caricia para este humilde blog...

No no nos agradezcas por la visita, tu blog se lo merece...

Intentaremos llenar todas tus espectativas musisquitiqueras...

Saludos

Mathilde dijo...

Merci de nous replonger dans l'histoire du parfum vieux comme le monde, mais dont forcément on ne se lasse pas, et ce, jusqu'en 2009, tant les fragrances multiples et sophistiquées sont là pour stimuler nos sens olfactifs et réveiller nos mémoires parfumées de souvenirs, toujours empreints de moments intenses ! Cela n'est pas prêt de s'arrêter, même si hélas le parfum reste un produit de luxe non accessible pour tout le monde, alors qu'il plaît forcément à toutes les classes sociales !
C'est le privilège du "riche" et sa façon de signifier aussi son rang !
Ah si j'étais riche, je dépenserais sans compter pour ces petits trésors !

joselop44 dijo...

Genial como siempre. Aprendo mucho con cada una de las entradas del Conventillo de la Museóloga.
Abrazos.

Anónimo dijo...

Pero ese perfume sale más que una casa!!!!. Ja, yo me conformo con mi desodorante Rexona.
PAblo

Anónimo dijo...

Il(Elle) n'importe pas que tu ne sois pas ni riche un millionnaire.
Tu peux seulement être parfumé bien que tu aies la constance d'armer des bouquets de lavandes et esparcirlas entre tes vêtements.
Les pauvres ne laissent pas d'aromariza ses corps et ses maisons.
Para Matilde:

Cela plantent seulement des lavandes ce qu'esparcen ce parfum propre qui dure et esparce par chaque coin de ses corps et de ses maisons.
Et si tu les laisses sécher et tout de suite tu les places dans un fourneau tu inonderas ton foyer avec ce doux parfum.

Un salut

Es decir, le dije no importa que no seas rico o millonario para perfumarte o tener perfumes,
Los pobres también se perfuman y lo hacen con flores de lavandas con las que forman pequeños ramilletes y guardan entre sus ropas.
Y también suelen dejarlas secar y luego colocadas en un hornillo el perfume dulzón invade el hogar.
(Más o menos eso es lo que le digo a Matilde)
Me encanta tu blog y me atrae tu sencillez y al mismo tiempo tu exquisita forma de tratar a quienes te escribimos y leemos.
Te felicito.
LAVANDA

Animat3 dijo...

El mundo de los perfumes es fascinante y conocer el por qué de su elaboración es si cabe más embaucador. Precisamente el perfume es uno de mis intereses principales aunque mi especialización es el perfume hoy no está de más saber los orígenes de las cosas.
http://esencias-perfumes.blogia.com/

Mathilde dijo...

De Mathilde A Anonyme :

Je n'ai jamais dit que les pauvres puaient ou ne se parfumaient pas !
Personnellement je m'asperge d'une eau de toilette soit au bambou soit à la verveine, sauf que j'adore tous les parfums Guerlain et que je n'ai pas les moyens de mettre ça tous les jours et du coup je n' achète jamais de Guerlain pour ne citer que ce parfumeur !!! Différence ! C'est fou comme on ne peut rien dire sur un blog sans être catalogué, jugé, comme si en 4 lignes j'avais tout dit ! Faudra-t-il aussi que je signale que parfois je mets aussi une eau de toilette à la rose mais qui n'est pas une grande marque de parfumerie ? Que je me lave tous les jours avec un savon aux 18 plantes qui tue tellement il sent bon et que je mets du déodorant OBAO ? J'hallucine complet sur ce coup là, à dégouter de venir faire des commentaires pour être critiquée et sans que la personne ait le courage de signer en plus !

Mathilde dijo...

J'insiste, la publication du parfum est une merveille, comme toutes les publications sur ce blog d'ailleurs, mais pour ANONYME : LE PARFUM RESTE ET RESTERA UN PRODUIT DE LUXE ! Désolée, mais pas besoin d'aller dans le tiers monde pour s'apercevoir qu'en France en Espagne, en Europe, tout le monde n'a pas les moyens ! C'est tout ce que je voulais dire précédemment, mais je ne peux pas laisser passer ça, pour moi c'est comme une insulte aux gens qui n'auraient pas les moyens, alors qu'il y a autant de gens pauvres qui se lavent et se parfument que de gens riches qui sont sales et ne mettent même pas de déodorant, cela est une évidence ! Mais comme a priori il faut appeler un chat un chat pour se faire comprendre...je suis bien obligée de le formuler ! Ce n'était pas mon propos que le vôtre de dire que seuls les riches peuvent sentir bon, mais un propos économique, sociale quasi politique ! Désolée d'être aussi tonique, "agressive", tenace, mais je déteste qu'on dise ce que je n'ai pas dit.
Cela ne m'empêchera pas de continuer à ouvrir ma grande gueule et de venir féliciter la talentueuse créatrice de ce blog !
J'ai cru comprendre anonyme que vous aimiez aussi mon blog, tant mieux, mais en espérant que vous ne concluez pas à chacune de mes publications des choses que je n'aurais jamais formulé !
Désolée encore d'être aussi "rentre dedans" aussi VROUM VROUM, mais j'ai du sang gitan, andalou et corse !!! Mais chien qui aboit ne mord pas !

Anónimo dijo...

Parece que no nos entendimos con Matilde.Era mi intención transmitirle como se perfumaban los pobres y compartir la fórmula accesible de perfumarse y perfumar el hogar.
Lo siento
Ye le sens
Et mon nom est Lavanda

Carlos Augusto Pereyra Martínez dijo...

Su post, me hizo recordar la novela El Perfume, la novela de Suskind. Interesante le manejo de la información sobre estos odorantes, tan imprescindibles. Qué haríamos sin ellos, Ka perfumería, según se deprende de la lectura de tu post, ha sido una tarea de siempre. Un abrazo

Sil dijo...

Muy interesante, los frascos tambien estan barbaros1

Mathilde dijo...

Un abrazo y un besito por Lavande !
Mille excuses pour cet emportement !
Et longue vie à ce blog, parfumé tout le temps aux mille saveurs !!!

Caio Fernandes dijo...

incrivel !!

Camilita dijo...

Me encanto tu blog.. es muy interesante!


te sigo.

Taty Cascada dijo...

Son los aromas los que nos marcan viejas huellas del pasado. Un agrado para mis sentidos encontrar tan delicado Blog.
Desde un perfumado Santiago de Chile, olor a ciruelos en flor, te dejo mis saludos.

http://secuenciasdelalma.blogspot.com/

Anónimo dijo...

alo megusta la linea de perfumeria me gustaria saber mas in formacion sobre este asunto y tambien sobre la joyeria por que quiero poner un negocio pero ano biendo como de que y la vdd esto me intereso muchisimo heder_skate666@hotmail.com les mando saludos a todos por haya asta pronto de aqui de puerto jaibo tampico tamaulipas mexico

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